Interview - Academician Luke Matthews
“The chef, like the sauce, takes time”
Chewton Glen’s long-serving executive head chef, Luke Matthews, tells Lisa Jenkins about his beginnings as a chef and the importance of apprenticeships and mentoring in the world of hospitality
This interview was written by RACA CEO Lisa Jenkins, and was originally published in Iconic Taste
Luke Matthews moved to Christchurch in Dorset at the age of five, and although he admits he misbehaved at school, he grew up with a love of home-cooked food and the camaraderie of a kitchen.
“I never enjoyed school because I wasn’t academic,” says Luke. “However, because I needed pocket money, as most young kids do, I did manage to get myself a job in a local Italian restaurant in Christchurch.
“I can still remember how I felt on that first day in Pinocchio’s as a kitchen porter – it was fun, and we had the radio on, and we all had a good laugh together. Sampling the pizzas at the end of the shift was a revelation. I loved being in the kitchen from the minute I stepped into it, and I loved the food.”
These were the foundations for a life in the kitchen, but Luke was still a long way from imagining a role as executive head chef at what Condé Nast describes as ‘one of the world’s best hotels’.
“My mum was a good home cook, and we ate lots of home-grown food and homemade bread. I guess that laid some basics, and after finishing school, I decided to apply for a chef apprenticeship in Bournemouth.
“At the age of 16, I secured myself a three-year chef apprenticeship at The Green Park Hotel in Bournemouth, which was a Jewish hotel, run by the rules of the Jewish faith and we all cooked under the supervision of a rabbi. Everything was made in house and it was an incredible training ground for me. The apprenticeship was connected to Bournemouth & Poole College.
“After my apprenticeship I secured a job at the Dormy Hotel at Ferndown, Dorset, and it was here I first experienced Chewton Glen with a week’s holiday work experience that I organised. My next role was in Jersey at Victoria’s in the Grand Hotel, then on to the Stonor Arms near Henley-on- Thames, followed by a season in the Luberon valley in Provence, France, where I met Chris Suter (who was Young Chef of the Year at the time) before coming back to the UK to work with Chris at Bishopstrow House, in Wiltshire.
“It was a vegetable supplier at Bishopstrow House who suggested I apply to work at Chewton Glen permanently when a vacancy for a sous chef opened up. That was back in July 1993 when Chewton Glen was one of the three original country house hotels of the time, including Gravetye Manor in East Grinstead and Sharrow Bay in Cumbria.
“I’ve been at Chewton Glen for over 30 years now and it all started from a love of the kitchen environment and a classic apprenticeship. The traditional training I had as an apprentice, learning the partie system, training as a commis, then chef de partie, then sous chef and head chef. We have had some excellent apprentices here, including Oli Marlow (a graduate from the Specialised Chef Apprenticeship programme at Bournemouth & Poole College) who has achieved amazing things with Simon Rogan and his Umbel Restaurant group.
“It’s a privilege to work here at Chewton Glen, personally. I’m lucky to have spent so long here, but the longevity of the kitchen team alongside me is also a reflection of our business”
“Apprenticeships are important in our industry for a solid foundation. I love finding someone who is a little bit rough round the edges – like I was – and moulding them into something special. It’s a responsibility though – as they will, of course, pick up behaviours and practices from you. I am also representing Chewton Glen and I hope I’m always kind and helpful to young people. It is important to the hotel and that the hotel gets that feedback – the parents need to know that’s how we work, too.
“Keeping up motivation is key. It’s hard work what we do in the kitchen. Having a sense of humour is important and we enjoy our place of work and have fun. Then, when it’s time to get our heads down and crack on, we do. I start most days on butchery, which is at the centre of the kitchen, so I see everyone face-to- face every day and I can usually spot any problems along with my long-term senior team.
“It’s a privilege to work at Chewton Glen, personally. I’m lucky to have spent so long here, but the longevity of the kitchen team alongside me is also a reflection of our business.
“I do think back to my time as an apprentice, and in fact, I’m currently working with one of my original tutors from Bournemouth & Poole College – John MacArthur, who is now at Brockenhurst College. We’ve had many apprentices come through Bournemouth & Poole, and now Brockenhurst and Eastleigh College. We also work with Poole High School.
“At Poole High School we go in and run cookery classes and take lessons. We also run a scheme where the students visit, with lunch and a tour of the hotel. I think that’s inspirational for young people. Sometimes we get young people from schools write in and I am always happy to offer a week’s work experience. If we can sow a seed of interest in a young student then that is great.”
